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Joe (who hails from Indiana) spent six years at The French Laundry in Napa Valley, and Shaina (a Madison native) did stints at Chez Panisse and Stone Barns Center for Food & Agriculture. Esquire magazine writer Kevin Sintumuang praised the service and said "The Harvey House charms with Great Lakes supper-club elegance." Joe, 41, spent six years at The French Laundry in Napa Valley, California, working up to sous chef; Shaina, also 41, cooked for a year each at Chez Panisse in Berkeley and Gramercy Tavern in New York.
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Dine-in is offered at a limited capacity, usually one or two tables, said Melody Lin, whose parents own the restaurant. Todd Allbaugh and Marleni Valle opened Finca Coffee in August 2019 in a modern building on Rimrock Road owned by the Alexander Company, which Allbaugh said has been great to them during the pandemic. Finca's tacos are among the best tacos you'll find in Madison. The shop offers limited indoor seating and curbside carryout.
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There are three bars all serving the house cocktail, a classic Old Fashioned, and the menu offers every iteration of surf and turf. Fittingly mounted on a wall near the entrance and overlooking the crowd is a row of animal heads—Texan wild boar, Oklahoma buffalo, South Dakota coyote—posed like the Mt. Rushmore of wooly America. It was Madison’s most anticipated restaurant in recent years. The Harvey House opened in summer 2021 to fanfare that matched the anticipation for the supper club-inspired restaurant, which was built in a historic train depot on West Washington Avenue. Owners Joe Papach and Shaina Robbins Papach previously worked at The French Laundry (Papach was sous-chef at the Thomas Keller three-Michelin-starred restaurant) and Alice Waters’ Chez Panisse Restaurant (Robbins Papach was a cook).
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Book your own completely private space with separate entrance. Contestants drew knives to break into two teams of five responsible for making a relish tray, a fish dish, chicken dish, beef dish and a dessert. Kish asked if any of the chefs had been to a supper club. Only Jacobs, a Chicago native, who moved to Milwaukee in 2011, raised his hand. Walking into The Harvey House, especially on a snowy winter evening, feels both special and familiar. The drinks, and the gorgeous bar set up, mirror that feeling.
The sweet nostalgia of it helps the evening linger a bit longer. The newly opened Harvey House in Madison pays homage to the glorious Upper Midwest supper club tradition. "While opening a restaurant during a pandemic has had its challenges, the restaurant is busy and doing great," Shaina Papach told T+L. "We feel so fortunate to have such an amazing group of people working at The Harvey House, as well as such a supportive community in Madison." Ru Yi Hand Pulled Noodle opened in mid-January on the 300 block of State Street to eager, high-energy crowds.
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The restaurant isn't offering dine-in for now and is concentrating on carryout and delivery. The result is one of the most striking spaces in Madison, which is more incredible when you consider that the Papaches glassed in the old train platform for a dining room. There is also dining on two levels in what was once the baggage claim building. Owners Joe Papach and Shaina Robbins Papach, who have worked at some of the country’s most exclusive restaurants, spent three years creating The Harvey House, which they’re billing as a modern-day supper club. Its name is a nod to both Shaina’s grandfather and the endlessly entrepreneurial Fred Harvey; This restaurant is a true family affair with Joe leading the kitchen and Shaina leading all aspects of design and business development.
Brian and Kim LaDow opened Skal Public House in May 2018 on Mount Horeb's Main Street in what was best known as Sole Sapori for 11 years. Brian LaDow said that business is going as well as possible. The restaurant is doing carryout, including curbside, dine-in and local delivery. Tokyo Sushi opened Dec. 10, 2019 on Williamson Street, and is surviving on carryout, co-owner Wenxin Chen said. The smoked kielbasa in a blanket ($16) was an oddity with one large, studded roll and what looked like two bookends. It tasted great, however, with juicy sausage and a hint of cheddar wrapped in a thick brioche.
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Joe had done a serious cook's tour, moving from New York's Gramercy Tavern and San Francisco's Quince to a six-year tenure at The French Laundry in the Napa Valley. Shaina, after a stint at Chez Panisse, opted to combine her interest in cooking and teaching, working with Alice Waters on The Edible Schoolyard Project. To tackle this considerable undertaking, they teamed up with Brooklyn-based Home Studios on the restaurant design and consulted with Tim Harrison, who revamped the kitchen of The French Laundry. And they tapped local artisans to dial in the details, like Jessica Niello-White, whose artwork is built into the archways and depicts the Wisconsin landscapes of yesteryear. Ken Kopp IV renovated his former New Orleans Take-Out location on Monroe Street in one month and turned it into Lorraine's Cafe, which opened in late January.
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The dining hall where he served as head chef is now known as Carson Gulley Commons. Contestant Dan Jacobs, the chef/co-owner of Milwaukee’s DanDan and EsterEv restaurants, has Kennedy’s disease, a rare neuromuscular disease, that slows him down. End your night by sending a complimentary postcard to a loved one. And grab one of those hard strawberry candies on the way out. You know, the ones your grandma always kept in her candy dish.
Classic cocktails such as an Ice Cold Martini or Jerry Thomas Manhattan, and a thoughtfully curated wine list, foster an unmistakable atmosphere of Midwest congeniality where restaurants are once again destinations where strangers become friends. Classic cocktails such as our Ice Cold Martini or Jerry Thomas Manhattan, and a thoughtfully curated wine list, foster an unmistakable atmosphere of Midwest congeniality where restaurants are once again destinations where strangers become friends. The same note of theatricality is on display at a much newer supper club, popping up in the most unexpected place. Debuting in 2018 on the Las Vegas Strip, the Bellagio's Mayfair Supper Club won't win the approval of supper club purists but it is earnest about approximating the vibe of a more urbane Prohibition-era supper club. Granted the only wildlife on view are the party animals prowling the strip, and the nearest thing to a natural landscape are the Bellagio fountains.
The supper club is just one example of renewed interest in older culinary traditions, if only because quarantines forced many to rediscover the homegrown foods that were most accessible and comforting. Just 30 miles north of Madison, the classic supper club Ishnala, founded in 1953, is so swamped now that you can expect a two-hour wait for a weekend dinner. The expansive wood-beamed restaurant, perched over photogenic Mirror Lake, feels like a jerry-rigged tree house that just kept spouting new Escher-worthy terraces and wings.
She says they have been turning the question around on guests, asking, “What does a supper club mean to you? For others it’s certain dishes that taste like the ones from their memories. Some say a supper club isn’t a supper club until it has a few decades under its belt. Knowing they wanted to open their own place, the couple moved back to the Midwest in 2018, and spent time scouting the perfect location. They found it in the form of the Madison Train Depot, one of the best-preserved examples of the city's 19th- and 20th-century railroad history. The pandemic delayed the couple's plans by a few years, but in summer of 2021, The Harvey House finally opened its doors.
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